From Andean Highlands to Canadian Fields: Pioneering Quinoa Cultivation in British Columbia & Superfood Recipes

Quinoa, a complete-protein superfood originating from the Andes Mountains, has captivated health enthusiasts and culinary explorers worldwide. Its versatility shines through in dishes like a rich and savory Quinoa Onion Frittata or a delightful, creamy Honey Vanilla Quinoa Pudding. But what if this ancient grain-like seed could thrive far from its traditional home, in the rugged landscapes of northern Canada? Join us on an intriguing journey as we explore an experimental quinoa harvest in British Columbia, spearheaded by an innovative local, and then dive into these fabulous recipes.

The Canadian Food Experience Project, launched in June 2013, invites participants to share their regional food experiences, aiming to clarify Canada’s culinary identity on a global scale. This month’s focus, “A Canadian Harvest,” perfectly aligns with our story of agricultural innovation in the Great White North.

An Experimental Quinoa Harvest in Smithers, British Columbia

Canadians are renowned for their resilience and profound entrepreneurial spirit. This pioneering drive constantly pushes boundaries, enabling us not only to adapt to challenging climates but to truly thrive and innovate, forging new paths and enriching our agricultural diversity. Our story takes us to the picturesque, yet agriculturally demanding, northern British Columbia.

Meet Steven Kiiskila, an agrologist and forester by profession, who, driven by a keen curiosity and unwavering commitment, embarked on an extraordinary agricultural experiment. While his weekdays are spent at a government desk in the forestry department, his summers transform him into a dedicated farmer. Steven channeled his after-hours energy into nurturing a small, experimental plot of quinoa near Smithers, B.C. His vision was to determine if this ancient Andean crop could prosper in the region’s tough winter climate and mountainous terrain. This fall, his living room became his lab, as he meticulously hand-harvested, dried, and analyzed the fruits of his labor.

Breakthroughs in any field don’t just appear by magic; they stem from diligent, behind-the-scenes work. It’s a process of thoughtful research, meticulous planning, fearless implementation, iterative experimentation, careful review, and continuous rethinking by individuals with groundbreaking ideas. In agriculture, this process demands immense time and, perhaps even more so, incredible patience.

Steven’s journey began long before a single seed touched the soil. While a small but growing number of quinoa farmers exist in Saskatchewan, no one had previously attempted to grow quinoa in Smithers. Steven hypothesized that northern B.C.’s relatively cool climate and mountainous topography bore enough similarity to quinoa’s native South American growing conditions to offer a reasonable chance of success.

Armed with this hypothesis, he delved into extensive research on quinoa cultivation. He identified a suitable parcel of sandy-soiled land and ordered seven distinct varieties of quinoa seeds. His next step was to meticulously prepare a 50′ x 100′ plot before carefully planting the seeds, setting the stage for his ambitious experiment.

The Quinoa Journey: From Seed to Harvest

Just one week later, the first resilient seedlings bravely pushed through the soil, a testament to nature’s enduring power and Steven’s careful preparation.

As the seedlings grew, they required dedicated hoeing and attentive care to thrive. For this crucial task, Steven enlisted the help of his sister, Rosalinda, and her three teenage sons. While we can only imagine their enthusiastic participation, it’s curious that no photographic evidence of their eager labor exists!

Understanding Quinoa: A Nutritional Powerhouse

Quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa) is a remarkably hardy plant, naturally adapted to the high altitudes and cold, dry climates of the Andes Mountains. It is technically not a grain, which comes from grasses, but rather a broadleaf plant belonging to the goosefoot family, a botanical group that also includes spinach, beets, and the common weed, lamb’s quarters. What we consume are the nutritionally dense seeds of the plant. Interestingly, the young quinoa greens can also be enjoyed in salads or cooked much like spinach, offering an early harvest bonus.

The mature quinoa seeds are a nutritional marvel, boasting an impressive profile. They contain all eight essential amino acids, making quinoa one of the rare plant-based complete proteins – excellent news for vegetarians and vegans. Furthermore, quinoa is rich in calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, and iron, vital minerals for overall health. It’s also high in dietary fiber, aiding digestion, yet remains remarkably easy to digest. Its naturally gluten-free status makes it an invaluable food for individuals with gluten sensitivities or celiac disease, offering a nutritious and versatile alternative to traditional grains.

Growth and Management in Northern BC

Quinoa exhibits a fascinating growth pattern: initially slow, it then accelerates rapidly, often reaching impressive heights of 5 to 7 feet (over 2 meters). This vigorous growth makes it a striking plant in the field.

For his experimental plot, Steven planted the quinoa seeds in rows spaced two feet apart, subsequently thinning the seedlings within the rows to a distance of 6 to 8 inches. He opted for an organic approach, using no synthetic fertilizers. The young plants required weeding twice: once when they were small, and again when they reached approximately two feet in height. Given quinoa’s inherent drought tolerance, no irrigation was necessary, a significant advantage in many growing regions.

Nature also provided built-in pest control. The bitter saponin compounds found in the mature leaves and coating the seeds acted as a natural deterrent, effectively repelling local deer and birds. Furthermore, the robust health of the quinoa plants in Steven’s plot allowed them to easily withstand minor insect damage. Among the seven varieties planted, the ‘Redhead’ variety proved to be the most successful and resilient in the unique Smithers climate, yielding the best results for Steven’s experiment.

The Harvest: A Labor of Love

The time for harvest arrived after the first hard frost had killed off the quinoa leaves, signaling that the plants were ready. At this stage, the seeds had hardened significantly, though they could still be slightly dented with a fingernail. Ideally, for optimal readiness, they should have been too firm to dent. Nevertheless, several weeks after a notably late October 24th frost, Steven and Rosalinda embarked on the painstaking task of harvesting their quinoa crop.

This was a truly hands-on harvest, a far cry from large-scale commercial farming. There were no massive swathers, combines, or grain trucks involved. Instead, Steven and Rosalinda manually cut down the tall quinoa plants. They then meticulously sectioned off the top two feet of each plant, which contained the valuable seed heads, separating them from the bulk of the stalks.

Drying, Threshing, and Saponin Removal

The harvested seed heads were brought indoors to complete their drying process, a critical step to prevent spoilage and ensure proper seed development. This led to the next, equally tedious and labor-intensive phase of the harvest: stripping the dried seeds from their panicles. This was achieved by rubbing the panicles between their hands, a traditional method requiring significant effort and patience.

Following this, Steven undertook the process of winnowing. He poured the collected material from a rubber tub onto a sheet spread on the ground. A fan strategically placed in front of the quinoa created a gentle breeze, carrying away the lighter bits of dried flowers, stems, and leaves, while the heavier, denser quinoa seeds fell directly onto the sheet below. This natural separation technique efficiently removed much of the unwanted plant debris.

Though not yet finished with threshing his entire crop, Steven estimates a final yield of approximately 75 pounds of usable quinoa from his experimental 1/10th of an acre plot. While this is significantly less than the average commercial yield of 1000 pounds per acre for a good crop, it’s an impressive result for a pioneering, small-scale experiment in an entirely new growing region.

Even after winnowing had removed most of the leaves, stems, and other debris, a thin, bitter coating of saponin still clung to the quinoa seeds. This natural protective layer, while deterring pests during growth, must be removed before consumption to eliminate its unpleasant soapy taste. Large-scale commercial processors typically employ specialized modified rice hullers for this task. However, Steven, demonstrating true ingenuity, turned to a household appliance: the washing machine.

He devised a clever method: placing small batches of quinoa into pillowcases, tying them securely, and running them through a cold wash cycle. To ensure no residual detergent flavor, he first ran the washing machine with vinegar instead of soap to thoroughly clean it. After this unique saponin removal process, the quinoa was then carefully dried, rendering it ready for storage or immediate culinary use.

Steven’s quinoa cultivation was undeniably an experimental crop, scaled for learning rather than commercial production. His findings suggest that the climate in northwestern B.C. might be too humid to fully dry the quinoa seeds directly in the field, a crucial factor for future large-scale commercial endeavors. This challenge implies that any future commercial production of quinoa in Smithers will necessitate further rethinking and modification of existing agricultural practices. But for an intrepid agriculturist, scientist, and entrepreneur like Steven, such obstacles are simply part of the ongoing process of discovery. Ultimately, his experiment yielded a winter’s worth of delicious, edible golden quinoa – a truly rewarding outcome.

The Golden Reward: Cooking with Homegrown Quinoa

This “edible gold,” whether homegrown or store-bought, can be transformed into countless wonderful dishes. The following recipes for a savory and versatile Quinoa Onion Frittata and a luscious, creamy Honey Vanilla Quinoa Pudding offer just a small glimpse into the culinary potential of this nutritious seed.

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Kitchen Frau’s Quinoa Tips

As Kitchen Frau, I highly recommend cooking a large batch of quinoa in advance. It’s incredibly convenient to keep a supply ready in the fridge or freezer, perfect for quickly tossing into salads, enriching soups, adding to eggs, bulking up hamburgers or meatloaf, or creating delightful desserts. Cooked quinoa stores well in the refrigerator for at least 5 days and maintains its quality in the freezer for several months. I often portion it into 2 or 3 cup servings in freezer bags, label them, and then simply give them a quick thaw in the microwave when needed. For detailed instructions, see how to cook quinoa here, and explore a couple of fantastic salad recipes here and here.

For the frittata, instead of using oil, a few slices of bacon are rendered to provide a wonderfully flavorful fat for sautéing the onions. This adds a depth of savory taste that elevates the dish. Since quinoa itself is an excellent source of protein, even a single slice of this hearty frittata is incredibly satisfying. It makes a fantastic option for breakfast or brunch, and any leftovers are perfect for packing into the next day’s lunchbag, staying delicious when stored in an airtight container.

The Honey Vanilla Quinoa Pudding is exquisitely luscious and creamy, with just the right touch of sweetness. If you desire a more intense honey flavor, an extra drizzle of honey just before serving will do the trick beautifully. I consider pure vanilla extract an absolute pantry essential. A quality bottle lasts a long time and is unequivocally worth the investment. There’s nothing more disappointing than putting effort into a homemade pudding only to be left with the lingering chemical aftertaste of artificial flavorings.

I find this pudding is best enjoyed warm, as the quinoa tends to firm up slightly when refrigerated. If you have leftovers, simply rewarm them gently in the microwave or on the stovetop to restore their creamy texture. It pairs wonderfully with a scattering of fresh fruit or berries on top. In the accompanying photo, I served it with my delightful Saskatoon Peach Preserves.

Quinoa Onion Frittata

• 4 slices bacon (4 oz/110 gms)
• 2 cups (500ml) diced onion (1 large)
• ½ teaspoon dried thyme
• 3 cups (720ml) cooked quinoa
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• ½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• ¼ teaspoon ground bay leaf (optional)
• ½ cup sliced green onions (about 4)
• 8 large eggs

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Liberally butter (or spray with cooking oil spray) a 10-inch (25cm) deep pie dish or quiche pan.
2. Dice the bacon by stacking the slices atop each other, cutting them in half lengthwise, then slicing them crosswise into ½-inch/1cm pieces.
3. Sauté the bacon pieces in a heavy skillet, set over medium heat, until they are nut brown and crisp. Do not drain off the bacon fat; its flavor is essential. Add the diced onion and dried thyme and sauté until the onion is translucent and just starting to get golden, about 5 minutes.
4. While the onion is cooking, place the cooked quinoa into a large bowl. Add the salt, pepper, dry mustard, ground bay leaf (if using), and sliced green onions. Toss well to combine all the ingredients evenly.
5. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs thoroughly with a stick blender, whisk, or rotary beater until light and frothy.
6. Add the cooked bacon and onion mixture to the spiced quinoa, ensuring to scrape in all the flavorful bits from the skillet with a rubber spatula.
7. Pour the beaten eggs over the quinoa mixture and stir gently to combine everything fully. Pour this entire mixture into the prepared baking dish.
8. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes (allow 5 minutes less if you are using a glass pan), or until the center of the frittata feels almost firm to the touch and only jiggles slightly when the pan is moved. The frittata will continue to firm up as it cools.
9. Let the frittata cool in the pan for 10 minutes before slicing it into wedges and serving. It can be enjoyed warm or at room temperature.

Serves 6.

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Honey Vanilla Quinoa Pudding

• ½ cup (120ml) quinoa, rinsed well
• 1 cup water
• 3 teaspoons pure vanilla extract, divided
• 1 can (14 oz/398ml) premium coconut milk or 1¾ cups (420ml) light cream
• 2 large egg yolks
• Pinch salt
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch
• 3 tablespoons liquid honey, plus more for serving
• Fresh diced berries mixed with a little honey, for serving (optional)

Instructions:

1. Thoroughly rinse the quinoa under cold water. In a small saucepan, combine the rinsed quinoa with the water and 2 teaspoons of the pure vanilla extract. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat.
2. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover the saucepan tightly, and cook the quinoa for 15 minutes, or until all the water has been completely absorbed and the quinoa is tender.
3. While the quinoa is cooking, prepare the custard base. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the coconut milk (or light cream), the remaining 1 teaspoon of pure vanilla extract, egg yolks, a pinch of salt, cornstarch, and 3 tablespoons of liquid honey until the mixture is smooth and well combined.
4. Pour this smooth custard mixture directly over the cooked quinoa in the saucepan. Return the saucepan to medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture just comes to a boil and visibly thickens to a pudding consistency.
5. Remove from heat and let the pudding cool slightly before serving. This pudding is best served warm or at room temperature, as it tends to become firmer when chilled. If serving leftovers from the refrigerator, gently rewarm them in the microwave or on the stovetop.
6. To serve, top with a little fresh or cooked sweetened fruit or berries, or simply drizzle with additional honey, or both, for an enhanced flavor and delightful presentation.

Makes about 3 cups (6 half-cup servings or 4 three-quarter cup servings).

Guten Appetit!

You might also like these related posts:

How to Cook Quinoa

Quinoa Crunch Salad

Green, Green, Green and White Quinoa Salad

Chocolate-Almond Tapioca Pudding

Ham and Green Onion Egg Buns

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View past Canadian Food Experience Project entries here:

June, 2013: My First Authentic Canadian Food Memory: Buttery Sautéed Mushrooms with Spruce Tips and Chives

July, 2013: A Regional Canadian Food: Saskatoon Roll or Saskatoon Cobbler and How to Freeze Saskatoon Berries

August, 2013:  A Canadian Food Hero in Northern Alberta, and Pickled Beets and Creamed Vegetables

September, 2013: My Cherished Canadian Recipe: Evans Sour Cherries in Brandy

October, 2013: Preserving, Our Canadian Food Tradition – Sweet and Spicy Apple Butter