From Poutine to Parliament: An Ottawa Montreal Journey

Authentic Canadian Poutine Recipe: Experience Canada’s Iconic Comfort Food from Quebec to Your Kitchen

Embark on a culinary journey to the heart of Canada with this beloved national dish: poutine. Imagine a plate piled high with golden, crispy fries, topped with fresh, squeaky cheese curds, and generously smothered in a rich, savoury gravy. It’s the ultimate comfort food, a delightful combination of textures and flavours that truly sets it apart. While its roots are firmly planted in Quebec, poutine has captured the hearts (and stomachs) of Canadians nationwide and beyond. It’s more than just a meal; it’s an experience, a taste of Canadian heritage that will leave you craving more! (Jump straight to the classic Poutine recipe)

Living in Canada offers endless opportunities for discovery, reminding me constantly of the breathtaking beauty and rich tapestry of our country. Recently, a memorable trip through Ontario and Quebec left an indelible mark, filled with inspiring moments and, of course, delicious food that perfectly encapsulates the spirit of these regions. This particular adventure marked several firsts for me: my inaugural visit to the esteemed capital city of Ottawa and my first attendance at the Food Bloggers of Canada annual conference. It was an absolutely incredible experience, brimming with learning, laughter, and the joy of forging new connections with fellow food enthusiasts. After three intensely engaging days of workshops, networking, delightful culinary explorations, and shared stories, I returned home both wonderfully exhausted and profoundly inspired. It was truly an invigorating and transformative weekend. For a deeper dive into the initial leg of my journey, including highlights from the conference and the prestigious Taste Canada Awards, you can explore the first part of my adventure here.

Discovering Ottawa: Canada’s Majestic Capital City

Ottawa is truly a special place, a city that seamlessly blends centuries of rich history with vibrant new growth and spectacular natural landscapes. As Canada’s capital, it stands as a living testament to our nation’s past, present, and future, offering an experience that is both grand and intimately engaging.

Ottawa reflections, a blend of old and new architectural marvels

During my time in Ottawa, whether exploring solo, with newfound blogging friends, or later with Raymond, I found myself constantly in awe. The sheer grandeur and intricate details of the Parliament Buildings were captivating, compelling me to photograph them from every conceivable angle. Each view offered a fresh perspective on their magnificent architecture and the historical weight they carry.

A classic view of the Parliament Buildings from the front
A striking view from the back, as we walked across the Alexandra Bridge, gracefully spanning the Ottawa River
And another breathtaking perspective from across the river in Gatineau, nestled between the Canadian Museum of History and the Musée canadien des enfants

Our guided tour of the Parliament building’s interior was nothing short of magnificent. Walking through those hallowed halls, where so much of our country’s history has unfolded, filled me with a profound sense of pride. It was a tangible connection to the legacy of Canada, a moment to reflect on who we are as a nation, what we represent, and the values we uphold. That feeling of being part of this glorious land, with its rich past and promising future, was truly moving.

Inside the stunning and historic library of the Parliament building

Beyond the Parliament buildings, Ottawa offers a wealth of other spectacular sights to behold. The city is a treasure trove of historical landmarks and natural beauty.

Dedicated soldiers standing guard at the National War Memorial, a powerful tribute
This industrious little squirrel, completely oblivious to the history and beauty surrounding him, diligently gathered nuts on the lawn of the National War Memorial
The grand statue of Samuel de Champlain at Nepean Point, offering commanding views
The architecturally significant West Block building on Parliament Hill
Downtown Ottawa, beautifully dressed in the vibrant colours of fall

Our visits to ByWard Market were a particular highlight—what a fun, fantastic, and lively place! The air was filled with the scents of fresh produce and bustling activity. At this time of year, pumpkins reigned supreme, decorating every stall and spilling onto the cobblestone streets, creating a truly festive atmosphere.

A truly unique and eye-catching custom car spotted near the vibrant ByWard Market
An unparalleled panoramic view of Ottawa from inside the clock tower of the Parliament building

On to Montreal: A City of Dynamic Contrasts

Leaving the stately elegance of Ottawa, our journey continued to Montreal, a city that immediately struck us with its incredible energy and diverse character. Montreal is a truly international hub, rich with history and heritage, yet infused with an undeniable funky, off-beat vibe. It’s a bustling tapestry of diversity and intriguing dichotomies, where deep-rooted arts and culture flourish alongside a modern, cosmopolitan spirit. Its charming old town gracefully coexists with a pulsing Chinatown and a busy inland harbour, all contributing to an urban landscape unlike any other. There simply isn’t a single word to capture the essence of this unique metropolis, and the few days we had there felt far too short to truly explore all its wonders.

Our first day in Montreal was met with a relentless downpour. The rain fell in buckets all day, leaving us completely soaked to the bone despite our best efforts. We even had to buy larger umbrellas, which offered only a minimal defence against the deluge.

A rainy day, however, presents a perfect opportunity for alternative exploration. We opted for a city bus tour, offering a panoramic view of Montreal’s key landmarks from the comfort of a dry seat. We also dedicated some time to art galleries—the amount of which, I must admit, was often dictated by my non-art-loving husband’s patience for what he playfully (or perhaps not so playfully) described as “painfully slow strolling” through beautiful painting after beautiful painting. Still, it was a wonderful way to experience the city’s indoor cultural treasures.

I could happily lose myself for hours admiring the masterpieces of the Impressionists, but with a restless husband, our gallery visits often transformed into an unintended speedwalking exercise!

Our second day brought clearer skies, allowing us to enjoy a leisurely stroll down Sherbrooke Street, an impressive thoroughfare lined with the flags of countries from around the world. It’s a powerful visual reminder of Montreal’s global outlook and diverse population.

We also passed by the beautiful McGill University campus, one of six distinguished universities located in the greater Montreal area, adding to the city’s vibrant academic and intellectual atmosphere.

A moment of playful self-discovery – I found the inner me (and perhaps a little bit of the outer me, too) in this quirky street art!

A visit to Montreal would be incomplete without a pilgrimage to the iconic Schwartz’s Deli for one of their legendary Montreal smoked meat sandwiches. The line often snakes out the door, but let me assure you, it is absolutely worth every minute of the wait. Eating at Schwartz’s isn’t just a meal; it’s a taste experience, a delightful blast from the past that transports you to a bygone era.

Give a wave to Raymond, patiently waiting in the renowned Schwartz’s Deli line!

Once inside, we elbowed our way to a spot at the scarred, timeworn countertop – a piece of history itself, I’m certain it must be the original from when the deli first opened its doors in 1928. The atmosphere was buzzing, and the anticipation was palpable.

. . . and promptly dug into colossal sandwiches of mustard-smeared rye bread, piled high with the most incredibly juicy, smoky, and flavourful corned beef – oh, it was simply divine! And the pickles! We indulged in one classic mouth-puckering green torpedo and a ‘half sour’—crisp, crunchy, and delicately pickled. Each bite was a symphony of taste.

The deli was alive with a vibrant symphony of noise and joie de vivre. The steady roar of hungry patrons chatting loudly intertwined with the boisterous calls of servers shouting out orders and playfully teasing each other, all while constantly bustling to keep the continuous stream of diners satisfied. It was an unforgettable experience, a true immersion into Montreal’s culinary soul. If you ever go, I highly recommend finding a seat at the counter; you’ll be right within the beating heart of all the action.

What I find most captivating about Montreal is its perpetual play of contrasts. One moment, you can be gazing up in absolute awe at the most ornate cathedral you’ve ever witnessed – and we’ve certainly seen our share across Europe! The next, you might find yourself grinning at the vast and varied array of vibrant graffiti and stunning murals adorning almost any available surface, each telling its own unique story.

Notre-Dame Basilica in Montreal – beautifully majestic from the outside
And stunningly beautiful within! The extensive gilding makes it glitter and sparkle like a celestial Aladdin’s cave, truly a sight to behold

From walls everywhere, you discover this artistry of another kind – vibrant, funky, and often thought-provoking. Montreal’s streets are an open-air gallery, celebrating creativity in all its forms.

In Chinatown, we stood mesmerized for what felt like ages outside a restaurant window, watching a chef expertly make batch after batch of hand-pulled noodles. The rhythmic stretching and folding of the dough, transforming it into delicate strands, was a hypnotic display of culinary skill.

The captivating art of hand-pulled noodles in Chinatown

On our final evening, we took a serene stroll through Old Montreal as night began to fall. As darkness deepened, a magical transformation occurred: captivating projections of historical figures and moments from Montreal’s rich story began to appear on the sides of buildings in unexpected places. This incredible project, known as Cité Mémoire, features an impressive array of moving tableaux, vividly showcasing many important chapters in Montreal’s vibrant history, bringing the past alive in a truly enchanting way.

The picturesque harbour area near Old Montreal bathed in the warm hues of sunset

A Delicious Discovery: Our First Taste of Authentic Poutine

The next day, we reluctantly departed from this special city and headed east. Stopping for lunch in the charming small town of Joliette, we serendipitously discovered a wonderful little artisanal brasserie (brewery). Here, we savored a glass of freshly brewed apple cider and, most importantly, tasted our very first poutine. The verdict was unanimous: utterly delicious! This humble yet iconic dish, originating in rural Quebec in the 1950s, consists of crispy french fries generously topped with fresh cheese curds and smothered in a rich, flavourful brown gravy. It began as a simple, hearty meal for farmers and truckers but has since become immensely popular across Canada and even beyond its borders. There’s something incredibly comforting and satisfying about a plate of fries and gravy; it’s a difficult attraction to explain until you’ve experienced it yourself. And if you elevate that experience by adding a generous mountain of shredded, meltingly tender roasted rib meat on top… well, that’s just a whole new level of culinary ‘wow!’

Next Stop: Quebec City!

Stay tuned for the next exciting installment of our journey in an upcoming blog post!

Don’t forget to catch up on the first part of our incredible trip here.

* * * * *

Kitchen Frau Notes: Achieving perfect poutine starts with the right ingredients. For the fries, feel free to use your favourite kind – whether they are fresh, homemade, or convenient frozen fries baked according to package directions, the key is crispiness. Finding the right cheese curds is crucial for authentic poutine; look for bags of fresh cheese curds in the cheese section of larger supermarkets or specialty cheese stores. If you can get your hands on ‘squeaky’ curds, you’ve hit the jackpot! This squeakiness is a hallmark of truly fresh curds and adds a delightful texture.

As for the gravy, use your cherished homemade recipe, or try the rich and delicious gluten-free version provided below. The ideal poutine gravy should be thick enough to cling beautifully to the fries and cheese curds, ensuring every bite is coated in flavour, rather than simply pooling at the bottom of the bowl.

For those who prefer a meat-free option, you can easily adapt this classic comfort food. Simply substitute a flavourful vegetable broth for the meat-based broth to create a delicious vegetarian poutine that doesn’t compromise on taste.

Authentic Canadian Poutine Recipe

This recipe provides the fundamental components for building your perfect poutine, focusing on individual servings to ensure optimal crispness and meltiness.

For each serving:

  • A few generous handfuls of hot, freshly cooked french fries – ideally homemade for ultimate crispness, or pre-frozen fries baked until golden and firm according to package directions.
  • A handful (approximately ½ cup) of fresh cheddar cheese curds. Ensure they are at room temperature for optimal melting and that signature “squeak.”
  • ¼ to ½ cup (60-120ml) of thick, flavourful gravy (use your favourite recipe, or see our rich gluten-free gravy recipe below).

Instructions for Assembling Your Poutine:

  1. Begin by arranging a single serving of the hot, crispy french fries in a shallow bowl. The heat from the fries is essential for slightly melting the cheese curds.
  2. Immediately scatter a handful of the cheddar cheese curds evenly over the hot fries. Don’t be shy; a good amount of curds is key to an authentic poutine experience.
  3. Generously drizzle ¼ to ½ cup (or more, to taste!) of your piping hot, thick, and flavourful gravy over the fries and curds. The gravy should be hot enough to soften the curds without completely dissolving them, leaving them wonderfully gooey and slightly melty.
  4. Serve immediately and eat with gusto! The magic of poutine lies in the interplay of hot fries, warm, yielding curds, and rich gravy.

Rich and Flavourful Gluten-Free Gravy Recipe

This robust and easy-to-make gravy is the perfect companion to your poutine, offering deep flavour and a thick consistency that adheres beautifully to fries and curds. It’s also versatile enough for other dishes!

  • 2 tablespoons cooking fat – unsalted butter, ghee, duck fat, saved pan drippings for extra flavour, or a neutral oil
  • ½ teaspoon onion powder
  • ½ teaspoon celery salt
  • ¼ teaspoon garlic powder
  • ¼ teaspoon dry mustard powder
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly coarsely ground black pepper
  • 3½ tablespoons sweet rice flour (or use regular all-purpose flour if you are not preparing a gluten-free version)
  • 2 cups good quality gluten-free beef broth (chicken or turkey broth can also be used for a lighter flavour profile)
  • 1 tablespoon gluten-free soy sauce (or tamari for strictly gluten-free)

Gravy Preparation Instructions:

  1. In a medium saucepan, heat your chosen cooking fat over medium heat. Once shimmering, stir in the onion powder, celery salt, garlic powder, dry mustard powder, and black pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 30 seconds until the spices are fragrant. This step helps to bloom their flavours.
  2. Sprinkle in the sweet rice flour (or regular flour) and continue to cook, stirring for 1 minute. This creates a roux, which is essential for thickening the gravy.
  3. Gradually begin to pour in the beef broth, whisking vigorously and constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Continue to whisk until all the broth is incorporated and the mixture is smooth.
  4. Stir in the gluten-free soy sauce. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the gravy comes to a gentle boil and visibly thickens to your desired consistency.
  5. Taste the gravy and adjust seasoning as needed. If it requires more salt or a deeper umami flavour, add a little more soy sauce. This gravy should be well-seasoned to ensure its flavour remains bright and prominent when paired with the fries and cheese curds.

*Note: If you plan to use this recipe as a regular gravy for other dishes, you might prefer a slightly thinner consistency. In that case, use only 3 tablespoons of sweet rice flour instead of 3½. For poutine, a slightly thicker gravy is preferred as it helps it cling to the fries and curds better.

This recipe yields approximately 2 cups of rich and flavourful gravy.

Bon Appétit! Enjoy your homemade Canadian Poutine!

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The majestic Parliament Buildings adorned in the glorious colours of autumn